central Cascades

 
 
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CENTRAL CASCADES PROGRAMS

Pilot and Photo John Scurlock

 

The Central region of the Cascade Range is a lesser known and traveled area than its cousins to the North and South. Trails and roads are often washed out and in some cases overgrown, giving these peaks a raw and remote feel. The mountains of the Central Cascade crest run South from the Skagit River drainage to the Snoqualmie River. This portion of the Cascades offers a full bouquet of objectives along the Mountain Loop Highway and the Snoqualmie Pass area. Not only is our most remote Cascade Volcano, Glacier Peak, located deep in this wilderness, but so are dozens of the most accessible mountains near the greater Seattle area. From a remote 4-to-5 day expedition into the 5th-highest peak in the state, to perfect 2-day weekend peaks, the Central cascades holds a the full spectrum of objectives for you.  Many of these peaks are perfect for the inexperienced adventurer looking for a novel overnight or day-outing. For those that are more experienced rock climbers, there is even a long remote alpine sport climb with fantastic views of the crest. Even the most avid alpinist, collecting modern alpine test pieces can be kept busy. If you are looking to experience the unfiltered Cascades, you don’t need to look much further.

Approaching the technical terrain in a lush alpine meadow on a 1.5 day summit in Central Cascades Photo: Mark Allen

DETAILS

2020 SEASON

  • June-October

DURATION

  • Custom trip length available


EXCLUDES

  • Transportation to and from meeting points

  • Personal climbing and camping equipment

  • Lunches and snacks on the mountain

INCLUDES

  • Professional Guide working within their Scope of Practice

  • Team prep-day for Alpine Rock and Mountaineering routes

  • All breakfasts and dinners on mountain Alpine Rock and Mountaineering routes

  • Tents

  • Stoves and Fuel (When we are catering)

  • Climbing Racks and Ropes

  • Emergency communications

CUSTOM GUIDING RATES

ALPINE ROCK OR ICE ROUTES (Up to 2:1 Climber to Guide Ratio, Max 4 climbers)

  • 1-Climber $749.00 day/climber (1 Guide)

  • 2-Climbers $449.00 day/climber (1 Guide)

  • 3-Climbers $549.00 day/climber (2 Guides)

  • 4-Climbers $449.00 day/climber (2 Guides)

MOUNTAINEERING ROUTES (Up to 5:1 Climber to Guide Ratio, Max 10 climbers)

  • 1-Climber $749.00 day/climber

  • 2-Climbers $449.00 day/climber

  • 3-Climbers $349.00 day/climber

  • 4-Climbers $299.00 day/climber

  • 5-Climbers $299.00 day/climber

  • 6+ Climbers - Contact Us for Pricing

SINGLE DAY MULTI-PITCH ROCK + (Up to 2:1 Climber to Guide Ratio, Max 2 climbers)

  • 1-Climber $699.00 day/climber

  • 2+Climbers $399.00 day/climber



MOUNTAINEERING PREREQUISITES

  • NO PREVIOUS MOUNTAINEERING required

  • Moderate to strenuous trekking and climbing at elevations above 7000ft’

  • Ability to carrying a heavy pack (up to 40lbs)

RECOMMENDED TRAINING PLAN

ALPINE ROCK and ALPINE ICE PREREQUISITES

  • Rappelling Experience

  • Climbing YDS 5.5-5.6 in boots

  • Glacier travel over moderate terrain in crampons

  • Ability to carrying a heavy pack (up to 35 lbs on trail 20 lbs on route)

  • Overnight bivouacs on route

  • Ability to handle exposure

  • For advanced rock-routes, one must have a resume of previous climbing accomplishments.

RECOMMENDED TRAINING PLAN


 

CLASSIC CENTRAL CASCADE OBJECTIVES

SLOANS WEST FACE ROUTE-This prominent face is seen from many peaksing in the Cascades. It’s unique shape often having on lookers inquire the peaks name. Photo John Scurlock

SLoAN Peak - 7835 ft / 2388 m

West Face (III- 4th Class Scramble to 5.8) - ALPINE ROCK

This route is perfect for the curious Cascade alpine climber wishing to scale the steep side of a well known Central Cascade peak. This holistic alpine-rock experience begins on the rugged Bedal Creek and steeply ascends into the lush sub-alpine to gain the face. Scrambling up tiered ledge systems brings you to a focused crux and 5.8 corner systems. Once above, we will follow the upper ledge systems and ridges of the West face while scrambling to the Summit. We will descend the Corkscrew Route, down the Southwest Ramp to the glacier, and loop back to our point of origin. A adventurous outing for those looking for unfiltered Cascadian experience off the beaten path.

Guide to Client Ratio: 2:1-4:2

Standard Duration: 2-Day + 1/2 prep (Alpine camping options available)

 

Morning Star Peak via the 5.10 multi-pitch Route Mile High Club. All bolted alpine sport foray into a remote setting. Photo Steph Abegg

Morning star Peak 5,280ft / 1609M

Mile High Club - (III 5.10)- SINGLE-DAY MULTI-PITCH ROCK +

A modern alpine-sport climb targeting the skilled gym climber seeking a little altitude. This face is gained by 7-pitches ascending a sustained 5.8-5.10 grade to the summit of the jagged Morningstar Peak. This is perfect for the avid rock climber visiting the area looking to sample some Cascades rock with little commitment. Alternatively, a local weekend warrior seeking alpine air via some challenging rock climbing should consider this line. Couple this climb with the North Face of Vesper, and you have perfect 2.5 day alpine rock climbing outing just Northeast of Seattle.

Guide to Client Ratio: 2:1-4:2

Standard Duration: 1-Day (Alpine and car camping catering options available )

 

DOME PEAK- The remote cascade glacial giant guarding the crest in the Glacier Peak Wilderness. Photo John Shurlock

Dome PEAK 8920ft / 2719m

Dome Glacier Route- (II-glacier travel) -MOUNTAINEERING ROUTE

This is for the mountaineer looking to quest deeper into the true crest. This is the Cascades experience in its rawest form and will provide lasting memories. You will spend the better part of 3-days to complete this objective. With a surreal 6-mile walk through old growth, the big trees will evolved into a dank Pacific rain-forest as you ascend to treeline and high camp. Camping in the alpine meadows on the shores of Cub Lake, our team will launch onto the remote Dome Glacier and a prominent summit of Glacier Peak Wilderness.

Guide to Client Ratio: 3:1-6:2

Standard Duration: 3-Day + 1/2 Prep

 

DARINGTON ROCK- Subalpine rock climbing venue in the lush Squire Creek drainage. Loved by avid Washington Alpine rock climbers looking to get off the beaten path. Photo John Scurlock

DarRington Rock Climbing 4000Ft / 1219m

Green Giant Buttress (IV 5.9)- SINGLE-DAY MULTI-PITCH ROCK +

Blueberry Hill (II 5.8)-SINGLE-DAY MULTI-PITCH ROCK +

A Washington Rock climber’s right of passage to climb the backcountry faces of Darrington Rock. The style of climbing here is granite slab with crack systems that allow forward progress up long, multi-pitch buttresses.  Considered off the beaten path even as access has improved over the years. It’s remote setting and rumors of rugged approaches filters the crowds from the few worthy classics like Dreamer and Blueberry Hill that can be scaled on a weekend outing.

Guide to Client Ratio: 2:1-4:2

Standard Duration: 1-Day (Alpine and car camping catering options available)

 

WHITEHORSE MOUNTAIN- A rugged but rewarding weekend objective. This prominent peak can be seen lording over the town of Darrington WA. Photo: John Scurlock

Whitehorse Mountain 6840 ft / 2085 m

So-Bahli-Ali Glacier Route- (II-glacier travel) -MOUNTAINEERING ROUTE

This peak holds the attention of any local mountaineer and onlooker. Whitehorse Mountain dominates the skyline over the Pacific Northwest mountain town of Darrington. Despite the peak’s lower elevation it still manages to host a steep glacier and rather rugged relief of +5800 ft of elevation gain. The approach trail ascends the lower forests via old logging roads and fades to adventrouse backcountry travel. Those with the fortitude are rewarded with an amazing high camp and alpine terrain above the clouds. A glacial traverse with a final rock climb to the summit offers 360 views to the rest of the range and the Puget Sound.

Guide to Client Ratio: 3:1-6:2

Standard Duration: 2-3-Day + 1/2 Prep

 

GUY PEAK- The extremely accessible moderate alpine rock route of Snoqualmie Pass. Photo: Mark Allen

GuyE Peak 5168ft / 1575m

Improbable Traverse- II-5.8 & Scrambling- SINGLE-DAY MULTI-PITCH ROCK +

You can’t miss the sheer West face of Guy peak when driving through Snoqualmie pass. A winding 7-pitch climb snakes its way through ramps and ledges up the face. After you ascend the lower 4th class sections to Lunch Ledge we step out leaving the ledge and gaining exposure. Our traverse for two pitches requires a few exciting 5.8 moves by a scenic scramble to the summit.

Guide to Client Ratio: 2:1-4:2

Standard Duration: 1-Day + 1/2 Prep (car camping and local accommodation options available)

 

MT. GARFIELD- This face holds one of Americas longest sport protected alpine Rock climbes-Infinate Bliss. Photo: Mark Allen

Mt GarField 5400ft / 1645M

Infinite Bliss- (IV 5.10+)- ALPINE ROCK

For the avid Northwest climber, this objective is on the bucket list. One of the longest alpine-sport protected climbs in North America, this 26-pitch climb with focused cruxes to 5.10c is a massive day of climbing over 2600ft of rock. But what goes up must come down, without a walk off you and your guide will rappel all 26-pitches making efficiency paramount. This is great practice for those looking to speed up their game or a sport climbing with an adventure streak. Because of the length we offer this climb at 1:1 ratio.

Guide to Client Ratio: 1:1

Standard Duration: 1-Day (car camping options available )

All programs are subject to The Mountain Bureau Terms & Conditions

 I was beyond impressed with their guiding ability and would highly recommend them to anyone interested in exploring the mountains. I was incredibly challenged by the climbing but felt safe. The trip left me empowered to follow more dreams.”

-Rachel H.

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