our Mission

To discover your peak…

We are a craft mountain-guiding service, rooted in the North Cascades, focusing on quality mountain guiding with highly skilled professionals as the foundation. Our mission is to provide safe, high-value climbing and skiing for our clients. Whether you are just beginning to explore the mountains or building on years of experience, we want to take you to the next level.

We provide a sustainable work environment, using credentialed guides. Providing living wages to Mountain Bureau LLC guides is a foundational platform and has had intrinsic benefits to our clients. We also strive to protect the environment that we live and work in through educational partnerships with Protect Our Winters and provide mentorship in ways of mitigating human impact via the Washington Climbers Coalition .

In the end, our main mission is you. Your goals and progression in the terrain that you want is our product, domestically and world-wide.

 
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our products

Modern style on classic objectives

We have spent decades climbing and skiing the world, searching for the most rewarding experiences. We are proud to offer a unique approach forged by years of experience. Each programs is built on a standard in which we would want to participate as a customer. Our programs are low-ratio experiences, tailored to your specific goals and objectives. This allows us to seek out the objectives and terrain that inspire you. We have offerings designed for you as an individual or your group, take a look. We are certain you will find something that motivates you.


Education is freedom

If you desire to launch confidently into the mountains or rock on your own, our guides can help you develop the skills and awareness needed to be independent. Whether you are a beginner looking to venture out for the first time, a highly skilled rock climber, or skier we are here to hone your craft and achieve your goals.

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OUR GUIDES

 
 

Exemplary expertise and experience…

The Mountain Bureau LLC is an international network of guides with a home base in Winthrop WA downstream of the North Cascades. Our guides are made up of professional rock climbers, alpinists, and skiers, regarded as some of the best technical experts and educators in the outdoor industry. Mountain Bureau LLC guides are licensed and certified by the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) and only work within their Scope of Practice. We are the only service in the United States to brand and live by the term “fair-trade-mountain-guiding” and we stand by this foundational principle. We provide a professionally sustainable work environment that supports our staff and directly benefits our clients’ experience and safety.

 

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MARK ALLEN

CREDENTIALS

AMERICAN MOUNTAIN GUIDE (AMGA)
IFMGA MOUNTAIN GUIDE (IFMGA)
LEVEL I & II AVALANCHE COURSE LEADER (AIARE)
WILDERNESS FIRST RESPONDER

Mark is the owner of the Mountain Bureau. Born in Northwestern Washington, he has been climbing and skiing in the North Cascades for 30 years. In 2009, Mark became the 64th American to hold full guide status with the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA). Mark has built extensive programing on rock, ice, alpine, and ski programs in Washington, Alaska, Canada, Western Europe, and Norway. Mark is the active president of the Methow Valley Climbers a Chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition and works to sustain climbing environments. In 2013, Mark was nominated for the Piolet d’Or (Golden Ice Axe) Award for his ascent on the Mastodon Face of Mount Laurens in Denali National Park. But most of all, likes exploring mountains in the North Cascades.

~AMERICANS OPEN NEW LINE IN ALASKA FA; THE MASTODON FACE,AK

~ALLEN-ZIMMERMAN VIDEO- PIOLET D' OR NOMINATED 2013

~ WA CLIMBERS KICK OFF AK SEASON WITH ASCENT OF MT. BRADLEY, AK


BRANDON BERTELSEN

CREDENTIALS

AIARE CERTIFIED AVALANCHE INSTRUCTOR
APPRENTICE GUIDE (AMGA)
PSIA LEVEL 2 CROSS-COUNTRY INSTRUCTOR
WILDERNESSS FIRST RESPONDER

Brandon is our Avalanche Education Program Manager and one of our AIARE Instructors. He has worked in outdoor recreation and outdoor recreation since 2012, in various states around the west: Utah, Wyoming, Montana, and Washington. He studied Park Recreation, and Tourism at the University of Utah in Salt Lake City. He spent three years guiding month-long wilderness expeditions for NOLS in Wyoming. Before making his way to The Mountain Bureau, he also spent two winters as a PSIA Level 2 Instructor teaching cross-country in Mazama, WA. Since 2019, he has spent summers as owner and operator of Methow Rafting, a river outfitter in Winthrop, WA. In the winter, his passion is to introduce people to backcountry skiing by teaching AIARE and Intro to Ski Touring courses at the Mountain Bureau. Whether it is skiing, rivers, or mountains, for work or play, Brandon lives to share wilderness adventures with others.


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ERICA ENGLE

CREDENTIALS

AMERICAN MOUNTAIN GUIDE (AMGA)
IFMGA MOUNTAIN GUIDE (IFMGA)
LEVEL I & II AVALANCHE COURSE LEADER (AIARE)
LEVEL III AVALANCHE COURSE INSTRUCTOR (AIARE)
WILDERNESS FIRST RESPONDER

Erica Engle is an IFMGA/UIAGM licensed mountain guide based in Leavenworth, Washington. After close to a decade in Jackson, Wyoming, she recently moved back to the Cascade Mountains, where she was raised and learned to ski and climb. Erica has worked professionally in the mountains since 2003 and came to guiding with a background in environmental science and is on the National Instructor Team for the AMGA and the American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education (AIARE), training new guides and avalanche professionals. She has spent time working and playing in ranges throughout the world, including throughout Alaska and the North American West, Ecuador, Norway and Iceland, the French, Swiss and Austrian Alps, the Caucasus, Tanzania, Thailand and Nepal's Himalaya.

~MEET ERICA-AMGA INSTRUCTOR TEAM MEMBER VIDEO

~WOMEN GUIDES SUCCEED IN MALE-DOMINATED INDUSTRY-CLIMBING MAG

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STEFFAN GREGORY

CREDENTIALS

CERTIFIED ROCK GUIDE (AMGA)
CERTIFIED ALPINE GUIDE (AMGA)
ASSISTANT SPLIT-BOARD GUIDE (AMGA)
CERTIFIED SINGLE PITCH INSTRUCTOR (AMGA)
WILDERNESS FIRST RESPONDER

It’s no wonder Steffan is the Bureau’s aficionado of Southwest Rock. He has been professionally guiding rock, alpine, and desert canyons since 2009. He is an accomplished big wall climber, establishing 10 new free or first free ascent routes up to IV, 5.12+ numerous single pitch and short multi pitch routes in and around Zion National Park When Steffan is not guiding, he spends his time exploring the remote frozen waterfalls of the desert Southwest, completing demanding alpine objectives in Patagonia and Argentina, looking for fresh turns on his split-board, and working on many side projects. Steffan is the host of the Peak Season Podcast for the Mountain Bureau, The executive Director of the Zion Climbing Coalition and has managed projects in Argentina working on solutions for waterless human waste management in National Parks. Steffan grew up in the Pacific Northwest’s Skagit Valley and the Mountain Bureau is lucky that he returns each season to guide in the North Cascades.

Steffan is currently an Aspirant Mountain Guide which requires passing at least one exam in Rock, Alpine and Ski.

~PATAGONIA: GRANT TO IMPROVE CLIMBING INFRASTRUCTURE, ARGENTINA

~FIRST ASCENTS ON BIG WALLS IN ZION, UTAH

~NEW ROUTE TO SUMMIT OF MT. JOHNSON; ZION, UTAH

 
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ZACK NOVAK

CREDENTIALS

AMERICAN MOUNTAIN GUIDE (AMGA)
IFMGA MOUNTAIN GUIDE (IFMGA)
LEVEL I & II AVALANCHE COURSE LEADER (AIARE)
WILDERNESS FIRST RESPONDER
LEAVE NO TRACE TRAINER
ASSISTANT SINGLE PITCH INSTRUCTOR PROVIDER (AMGA)

Zack is an IFMGA Mountain Guide based out of North Bend, WA. He grew up in Jerusalem, exploring the desert canyons of the Judean desert and cut his teeth climbing long routes on the Jordanian sandstone of Wadi Rum. Zack has spent the majority of his professional life as an outdoor educator and to this day is more excited about creating strong bonds and helping people grow their skill sets, than he is about always climbing or skiing the hardest or coolest line. After many years of a semi-nomadic lifestyle and returning to the US full time in 2014, Zack now lives with his wife in the Snoqualmie Valley and is passionate about exploiting his local terrain, both climbing and on skis. In his free time, you can find him sport climbing, riding bikes, walking in the woods, and attempting to speak languages other than English to varying degrees of success.

 

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CHRIS SIMMONS

CREDENTIALS

AMERICAN MOUNTAIN GUIDE (AMGA)
IFMGA MOUNTAIN GUIDE (IFMGA)
LEVEL I & II AVALANCHE COURSE LEADER (AIARE)
WILDERNESS FIRST RESPONDER

Chris Simmons has been guiding in Washington, Oregon, and northern California since 1999. In 2011, He became the 75th American to hold full guide status with the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA)and is on the National Instructor Team for the AMGA. Chris has racked up numerous exploratory ski tours in Japan, Canada, and the North Cascades. Chris has had 15 seasons as a ranger for Antarctica’s Mt. Vinson or managing scientific teams in several of the world’s arctic locations. Chris holds a long list of successful guided trips and expeditions including visits to the North Cascades, the Swiss-French and Italian Alps, Ecuador, Antarctica, Canada, China, and the Tibetan Plateau.

~TEAM ESTABLISHES TWIN SISTERS SKI HIGH ROUTE, NORTH CASCADES

~FIRST ASCENT OF SOUTH RIDGE MT. DIDO, ANTARCTICA


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CHRIS WRIGHT

CREDENTIALS

AMERICAN MOUNTAIN GUIDE (AMGA)
IFMGA MOUNTAIN GUIDE (IFMGA)
LEVEL I AVALANCHE COURSE LEADER (AIARE)
LEVEL II AVALANCHE INSTRUCTOR (AIARE)
WILDERNESS FIRST RESPONDER

Chris Wright began his guiding career in 2006 with a move to the Pacific Northwest. An avid alpinist, Chris recently made the first ascent of one of the world’s most beautiful unclimbed 7000m peaks, Link Sar in Pakistan. Chris has also received the prestigious Mugs Stump and American Alpine Club Cutting Edge Awards for climbs in India and Nepal. Closer to home, he opened a new route on the famed East Face of Alaska’s Mooses Tooth. In addition to being the 93rd American Mountain Guide certified by the AMGA and IFMGA, Chris has climbed, guided, and skied across the U.S. and the world from Canada to Alaska, New Zealand, Europe, Africa, Mexico, the Andes, and the Himalayas. His climbing achievements include everything from Yosemite big walls to unclimbed Karakoram summits, and his guiding career has taken him from the Denali to the Matterhorn, and up Mt. Hood too many times to count. He is also on the National Instructor Team for the AMGA.

~ ZIMMERMAN AND WRIGHT-FIRST ASCENT ON MT. MACDONALD

~CLIMBERS OPEN EXPLORATORY ALPINE ROUTES; MOOSES TOOTH, AK

~AMERICAN TEAM CLIMB NOTABLE ASCENT IN PAKISTAN


Zack Wentz

CREDENTIALS

AMGA SINGLE PITCH INSTRUCTOR
AMGA SPLITBOARD GUIDE
AMGA ASSISTANT ROCK GUIDE
AMGA APPRENTICE ALPINE GUIDE
LEVEL I & II AVALANCHE COURSE LEADER (AIARE)
CANADIAN AVALANCHE ASSOCIATION ITP LEVEL 2
WILDERNESS FIRST RESPONDER

Zack Wentz is a Seattle-based mountain guide, having worked in Washington full-time as a mountain guide since 2018 & is one of the country’s best splitboard guides. As one of less than 15 total AMGA-certified Splitboard Guides, he designed the curriculum for the Washington Splitboarding Courses we offer at Mountain Bureau, and is a leader in the splitboard community in Washington.

His mission is to increase responsible access to the mountains for the public, and he does this in a number of ways: -building curriculum & instructional progressions for courses through the Mountain Bureau, -teaching courses for all difficulties for the Mountain Bureau, -work with the Northwest Weather & Avalanche Center (NWAC) on instructing avalanche awareness courses, as well as submitting professional field observations, and -writing about splitboarding through WildSnow.com.

Zack believes the best educators & guides are the ones who have the breadth of personal mountain experience coupled with the desire to share this with the public, & his climbing & splitboard mountaineering achievements are numerous. He has a full splitboard descent of the East Face of Aoraki/Mt. Cook in New Zealand, which has been skied less than 100 times, numerous steep splitboarding descents in Alaska, Canada, Washington, Oregon & France. He also studied Snow Avalanche Forecasting as a part of his Forestry degree at UBC Vancouver, and believes having both a thorough experiential & academic knowledge of avalanche risk management makes for the best understanding of this complex hazard. His research in vegetation effects on the snowpack he presented at ISSW 2018.

Zack is pursuing full IFMGA Mountain guide certification, and aims to use this cert to better serve his mission. You’ll see him on both winter & summer programs with the Mountain Bureau, helping educate the public on mountain common practices in risk management.

~ Thesis Understanding the Effects of Tree Height on Snowpack Instability in Maritime Snowpack Climates - Presented at ISSW 2018
~ WildSnow Splitboarding Blog Posts
~ Washington Ski & Splitboard Courses

 

JUSTIN ROTHERHAM

mOUNTAIN BUREAU PROGRAM director

Justin comes to the Mountain Bureau with over a decade of outdoor education experience and a background in program development and administration. He has contributed to the development of National Standards for Volunteer Leaders in Mountain Sports, organized under the UIAA, and has instructed climbing and mountaineering programs for some of the largest climbing organizations in the country. Justin has called the Pacific Northwest home for over 30 years and spends much of his time exploring the peaks and crags of the Cascades. When he is not sorting out logistics for a Mountain Bureau program, Justin can be found skiing, climbing, and hiking with his wife and two teenage children.

 

WHY CHOOSE US?

Craft Mountain Guiding Rooted in the North Cascades

EXPERIeNCE

The founder, Mark Allen has been guiding since 2000 and has maintained a hand in developing all Mountain Bureau programs along with his trusted core staff. Mark has the pleasure of working for nearly every outfitter in the PNW and experienced every possible program variation. Mark as selected and networked team of experienced locals in all the regions we operate. Mark is still involved in all Mountain Bureau operations or guiding your trip. Learn about the Mountain Bureau evolution in our podcast PEAKSEASON Episode 0 & Episode 1.

SMall - Craft - Boutique

We offer a craft experience at competitive prices. All of our trips have a high touch feel and get you the access you desire to a professional team. Mountain Bureau programs are all inclusive by providing instructional team meeting and packing session, group meals all camping equipment, all group climbing equipment all facilitated by a licensed professional with remote emergency oversight. On foreign trips, group accommodations and local transport is also included.

 

Steffan Gregory, a Lead guide at the Bureau, short roping his guest to the summit of Eldorado in the North Cascades National Park- photo Bedrock Productions

We are Career Guides

We are the most experienced group of regional guides in the PNW with a strong emphasis on mentorship of our staff in training. We are extremely selective in who guides our clients and in tern are Fair Trade Living Wage. Our guides are made up of professional rock climbers, alpinists, and skiers, regarded as some of the best technical experts and educators in the outdoor industry.

OPERATIONAL STANTARDS

Its important to know guides are not required to meet a national standard in the US. The bar is quite low. We hire career guides working within their SOP. We also provide our staff an incredible amount of mentorship, communications and tools to succeed on your program. Our operational standard is one of the highest in the industry.