Climb Eldorado Peak - East Ridge Route

Climb Eldorado Peak

Eldorado Peak and the Inspiration Glacier headwaters of the the Cascade River and one of the largest alpine ice caps in the lower 48 and Great climbing and skiing objective. Photo John Scurlock

 

Eldorado Peak, 8876FT /2705m

The Mountain Bureau is the premier regional mountain guiding service. What makes us unique?

Eldorado Peak is Located in the North Cascades National Park. The legendary and personal friend, Fred Beckey, calls this peak "Queen of the Cascade River" considering that it is in the middle of a collection of beautiful peaks and holds one of the largest largest contiguous ice-sheet in the lower 48 states not connected to a volcano, the summit has a Andean like splendor owing to its remoteness, position, and knife-edge summit ridge. The climb is not technically difficult, but provides a rugged adventure deep into iconic North Cascades experience. Views into Marble Creek, Dorado Needle, Forbidden Peak, Mount Buckner, Logan, Johannesburg and other prominent Cascades Peaks. It is an exhilarating summit experience, the ridge gives one a feeling of being out in the true alpine environment. This is a mountain that any mountaineer visiting the Pacific Northwest really should see and climb it!

Details

Location: Eldorado Peak
Ratio: 3:1 climber to guide (max. 6 climbers)
Length: 3 days + 1/2 day travel and prep
Cost: $2247.00 per person - 1 Climber/1 Guide
$1347.00 per person - 2 Climbers/1 Guide
$1047.00 per person - 3 Climbers/1 Guide
$1347.00 per person - 4 Climbers/2 Guide
$1197.00 per person - 5 Climbers/2 Guide
$1047.00 per person - 6 Climbers/2 Guide
Dates: July 18-21, 2024

Custom dates are available for this program by submitting a Private Booking Request or calling our office at (619)432-5462.

Itinerary

Prep Day - Travel to the Skagit Valley, WA. The team will start with a welcome meeting, run through a group gear-check and program orientation. We will get your pack to a comfortable weight and have time to answer any questions you may have.
Day 1 - Travel to the trailhead at 2,500’, deep in the sub-alpine old growth of North Cascades. We start our adventure by fording the Cascades River and through the old growth of the Cascades River valley. We will make it to treeline find a basecamp among the boulders in a glacier sculpted landscape; 1.0 Miles, Elevation Gain, +3286' 5-6 Hrs Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack Weight
Day 2 - Summit Day! Pre-dawn alpine start form High Camp ascending the glaciers to the Summit of 9131’ with light summit packs. The team will return to camp, pack up, followed by a full decent to the trailhead; 2.5 Miles, +3346' Elevation Gain Elevation Loss, (5551' to 8850) '8-10hrs+ Hours Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack Weight

Day 3 - Wake up early and use the last day as a contingent weather day or have a lazy morning enjoying the alpine vistas and reversing our route and a celebration meal at a local restraunt in the Skagit Valley.


Includes

  • Reserved Permit for Backcountry Sulphide Zone

  • All breakfasts and dinners on the mountain

  • Tents

  • Stoves and fuel

  • All group climbing equipment

  • Emergency communication

Excludes

  • Personal climbing and camping equipment

  • Lunches and snacks on the mountain

  • Transport to the Skagit Valley

  • Overnight accommodations on the first and last night of your trip

Activity Requirements

No previous mountaineering experience required
Moderate to strenuous trekking and climbing at elevations above 8,000’
Travel over moderate glacial terrain
Rock Scrambling in boots or crampons
Ability to carrying a heavy pack (35-to-40 lbs)
Overnight camping in tents


north cascades national park

Mountain Bureau Guide Steffan Gregory and guest nearing the summit of Eldorado with the PNW Skagit Valley below. Photo Bedrock Filmworks production

This is our happy place. At more than 500,000 acres, the North Cascades National Park consists of a lifetime of Alpine Mountaineering and Alpine Rock Climbing. The mountains feature steep rugged glacially sculpted rocky mountain peaks with the most expansive glacial system in the contiguous United States. This offers an attractive climbing venue with significant relief and majestic views. The glaciers in route to your objective are watershed to major spillways feeding the highest degree of flora biodiversity of any American national park. This area is incredibly scenic and therefor very popular. Access to large portions of North Cascades National Park are limited and it is difficult in peak season to acquire access to popular climbs. The Mountain Bureau secures backcountry permit reservations with the National Park Service for all of our scheduled climbs so you don’t have to worry about access.


All scheduled programs can also be booked with custom dates and itineraries. Please see our Custom Guiding pages for more information or Contact Us for a custom program.

All programs are subject to the Mountain Bureau LLC Terms & Conditions

Eldorado from the South. The Queen of the Cascade River. Photo John Scurlock